“Easy come, easy go,” said 1990s supermodel Naomi Campbell, when asked about Instagirls on “The Meredith Vieira Show” in 2015. Instagirls, or better known as “Instamodels,” established their modeling careers by amassing online followers. Many adopted the same opinion as Campbell: Instamodels could become overnight sensations with merely a post but would lose their popularity just as fast. Past supermodels built their careers over years on the catwalk. Despite early criticism for not earning their stripes, Instamodels still must hustle to book fashion shows and editorials.
Graphic by Ha-Tien Nguyen.
Several years after this initial backlash, Instamodels now dominate the fashion industry. Changing as fast as fashion itself, the job description of a model has expanded to require a social media presence. Consequently, being a model is more difficult today because 24/7 engagement means constant scrutiny by internet trolls. Instamodels, however, are professionals at their jobs. Instamodels should be valued beyond their physical features as they have the power to influence, empower and inspire change in fashion and in their followers.
Before discussing Instamodels and their success, it is worthwhile to recognize the harmful effects Instagram has on young people, especially teen girls. According to Facebook’s own research on Instagram, “Thirty-two percent of teen girls said that when they felt bad about their bodies, Instagram made them feel worse.” Despite its good intentions to connect people, Instagram inadvertently facilitates social comparisons. Instamodels, though, understand that social media enables them to be the representation that the fashion industry lacks and desperately needs. Teen girls can see themselves in these Instamodels, feeling both seen and beautiful. For instance, Adut Akech and Anok Yai champion dark-skinned African women, speaking up against colorism that influences fashion imagery. Akech and Yai deliberately wear their hair natural for fashion shows, which gives their young followers a chance to see people who look like them on the runway.
Successful Instamodels put forth an online persona that resonates with their followers. In the early 2010s, Cara Delevingne posted comical candids on Instagram, not typical of a high-fashion model at the peak of her career. One of the first Instamodels, Delevingne prioritized her personality over her appearance on social media. This authenticity attracted the public. Delevingne became known for more than just her signature eyebrows; she was the goofy girl everyone loved.
Before Instagram, a model would sell clothes on the catwalk and at social gatherings. In the age of social media, Instamodels must consistently share content to keep their followers engaged. They are always on duty to serve and market looks wherever there are cameras, including those from the phones of passersby. Kendall Jenner, the world’s highest-paid model as named by Forbes in 2018, is a master marketer through her social media. With 206 million Instagram followers as of late 2021, Jenner can single-handedly start a fashion trend. After being worn by Jenner in an Instagram post, the Hockney dress from the London-based brand House of Sunny sold out twice and went on pre-order for its third drop. Inspired by the painter David Hockney, this cult slip dress features a back cutout with a lily pad pattern. Jenner also goes live on Instagram for product endorsements and paid sponsorships, effortlessly advertising for designers with a click of a button. Her online presence alone influences millions.
The impact of Instamodels extends far beyond their social media accounts. Instagram accounts such as @thehadidcloset (32.9 thousand followers), @closetofbellahadid (41.8 thousand), and @haileyrbiebercloset (153 thousand) find and share links to model-off-duty wardrobes, which include essentials like cropped tees and oversized dress shirts to appear effortlessly chic on the go. Whether searching for sexy tomboy looks, classy ensembles or relaxed fits, people can now easily access the clothes that the Hadid sisters and Hailey Bieber wear on a regular basis. Instamodels can sell clothing simply by having their photos taken on the street without the exorbitant costs of photoshoots.
Being beautiful is no longer enough to be a successful model. Successful Instamodels must be socially aware as well as active on their digital platforms. Karlie Kloss recognized this social responsibility and embraced it, her posts reflecting different political views than her in-laws, the Kushner family. In 2015, she severed her lucrative contract with Victoria’s Secret because she said the lingerie giant did not reflect her feminist values. A former angel for its annual fashion show, Kloss hung up her wings to provide opportunities for her younger followers. That same year, Kloss launched Kode With Klossy, a program partnered with Teach For America that empowers young women and non-binary individuals to pursue their passion for technology. Kode with Klossy hosts free summer coding camps across the nation and awards 2,000 scholarships to its scholars. Kloss actively shapes and supports the next generation of coders to be more diverse and capable than ever before.
Instamodels also champion diversity and body inclusivity through authentic representation. As an Atlanta native, I am proud to be from the same city as Precious Lee, the first African American curvy model to walk the Versace runway and the only one featured in the label’s spring 2021 campaign. A trailblazer at heart, Lee exudes a contagious confidence that rubs off on those who follow her modeling career. Hunter Schafer, who plays Jules in the HBO drama series “Euphoria,” began her career as a model who continues to share the beauty of the transgender community through her character. HoYeon Jung, who plays Kang Sae-byeok in the Netflix original series “Squid Game,” also started out as a model before her breakout role. Her handsome face graces screens across the world, and she proves that having the “look” in the fashion industry can go beyond the Eurocentric features that have prevailed in the past.
After the supernova personalities of the 1990s supermodels, the fashion industry did not want future models to outshine the clothes they advertised, so some designers reduced models to “walking hangers.” More than a trend, Instamodels do not receive enough credit for their contribution to the recent expansion in beauty standards. They also use their digital platforms to direct their followers to social issues that deserve recognition and support. From “supermodels” to “Instamodels,” the job of being a model has changed, yet underappreciation for models has remained the same. These strong women are more than just a pretty face: They are role models.
Andrew Bui (25C) is a born and raised Georgia boy with big fashion dreams. He plans to major in business and French. As a fashion columnist, Bui devours issue after issue of ‘Vogue’ and never misses an episode of the ‘Business of Fashion’ podcast. Inspired by Virgil Abloh, Miranda Priestly, and Karl Lagerfeld, he hopes to provoke fashion-forward thoughts, one article at a time. Connect with Bui at andrew.bui@emory.edu.
