Every September, New York City’s streets are mobbed with fashionistas donning the latest trends, reporters from every major fashion magazine and the masses trying to get a glimpse of it all. From the faint-inducing Yeezy show to Marc Jacobs’ social media contention, this year’s New York Fashion Week (NYFW) has been unlike any other. Sure, the Tommy Hilfiger and Gigi Hadid (TOMMYxGIGI) collaboration and Tom Ford’s Fall 2016 collection delivered innovative “see now, buy now" events, but the prevailing trends went far beyond the apparel itself, essentially endorsing the Democratic Party presidential candidate Hillary Clinton. Thus, the color of the moment? Cobalt blue.
From the Clinton campaign fundraiser hosted by Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour to Namilia’s risque “Take Down Trump” dress, NYFW has transformed into a political madhouse filled with sequins, stilettos and strife. But the politicking did not stop there. International fashion house Opening Ceremony opted out of a traditional runway show and presented a “Pageant of the People” featuring celebrities airing their grievances on today’s political culture. Celebrities, styled in next season’s looks discussed topics ranging from equal pay and police brutality to immigration.
Even designer Prabal Gurung got in on the action with his feminism-inspired collection and finale of luxurious, crystal-encrusted pantsuits. Despite the obviously liberal fashion industry, a series of nonpartisan public service announcement videos featuring celebrities, models and designers appeared on social media throughout the week, uniting the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Condé Nast (the parent company of Vogue) on the issue of voting. Without a doubt, the 2016 presidential election has cast a shadow on pop culture, but has the fashion industry gone too far?
NYFW attendees were just as divided on the subject as are Democratic and Republican politicians. While some found the blatant political displays off-putting, others voiced their appreciation for the commentary on the current political climate, causing the subject to trend on Twitter.
@Tala1212 tweeted: “I love how @openingceremony united fashion and politics together for their #NYFW show! Great use of what's trending ‘now.’ ” This reflects an even larger question about the artistic and intellectual movement: Should art focus primarily on aestheticism? Critics argue that art should be pure and support only aesthetic values rather than socio-political themes. However, by extension, fashion is a form of decorative art which cannot be complete without outside influences.
The controversial question, “Is fashion an art or a utility?” is still heavily debated today among designers and historians alike. Why should the fashion industry be isolated from today’s evolving culture? Just as one’s outfit of the day is determined by one’s unique personality, identifications and moods, fashion reflects the culture in which it exists.
The charged events of this NYFW are a shift from the traditional commercially polished events of years past. Even traditional designers such as Caroline Herrera, who typically presents trademark evening gowns, have taken strides to dress the woman of today. Herrera’s Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection consists of flattering, easy-to-style dresses and chic, updated versions of her classics.
Yeezy’s Season 4 Show on Roosevelt Island was the most groundbreaking concept. While Kanye West’s casting criteria of “Multi-racial women only” is certainly a crack in the fashion industry’s history of racial exclusion, it can also be interpreted as a political statement on current race relations. Despite logistical errors, such as the dehydrated crowd and over-90-minute wait time, West’s fashion presentation at the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park reaffirmed NYFW’s evolved stance on politics.
There is no doubt that the political fashion statements of September 2016’s NYFW will be in vogue throughout November, but one cannot help but wonder whether the controversy of fashion and politics will be a recurring trend next spring.
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