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Wheel Summer Dispatch: The Beautiful Game, Up Close in South Africa

By Wesley Leung Posted: 07/02/2010
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Courtesy of Wesley Leung
Upon arriving in South Africa, the spirit of the FIFA World Cup smacks you in the face. The airport walls are lined with murals of young children playing soccer. Banners and flags hanging from street posts celebrate the event and represent the 32 teams participating. Posters everywhere announce “Africa United” in support of all the African teams and the inaugural World Cup held on African soil. The South African government even declared every Friday “jersey day” and almost all employees working in South Africa proudly wear their nation’s jerseys to support “Bafana Bafana."

Around every corner, at every local bar, and certainly on match days, I was faced with a variety of soccer cultures. I touched down in Durban the day that talented Spain dropped its first match against unlikely Swiss contenders. That night the bars were filled with Spanish fans drowning their sorrows in the local pale ales. Despite their surprise loss, I could tell the fans weren’t too shaken and still stood strong behind their battle-tested boys. A group of both Swiss and Spanish fans crowded around a table as they split jugs (their word for pitcher) and spoke drunken slurs to each other in neither of their native tongues.

It’s hard not to respect and appreciate the passion that the fans show for their countries. People traveled from all over the globe to support their nations on foreign soil. I decided to cheer for the South Koreans in the match that I attended on June 22 between South Korea and Nigeria. I luckily was traveling with an insider who tipped me off on the Korean soccer chants to help me blend right in. As we stood outside Moses Mabhida Stadium in our Korean gear, I was pleasantly surprised at how many South Africans and Nigerians asked to take photos with us. It was humbling and slightly comical considering I was only posing as a South Korean. However it did teach me yet again how unique and friendly the atmosphere of the World Cup is.

As we sat down in our seats in the upper deck I looked on at the immaculate pitch and the astonishing stadium. The Moses Mabhida stadium has a trademark arch stretching right over the top of it where visitors can take a Skycar ride end to end and get a bird’s eye view of the whole structure. The arc makes the stadium feel like it has a handle and can be picked up and easily moved to Brazil for 2014.

Equally stunning was the atmosphere that filled the stadium. The highly controversial vuvuzelas rang loudly throughout the stadium. They were such a common noise in South Africa that, if you blew one at a church service, I doubt any heads would turn. The Nigerians struck early and scored a 12th minute goal after a slow rolling cross in the box was fought hard for and finished by Kalu Uche. That goal really rattled the stadium and opened my eyes to the support that Africans have shown each other. The South Africans were cheering as if Bafana Bafana themselves had scored and I distinctly remember several memorable faces turning back to capture my stunned expression. The Nigerian fan next to me patted me on the back and said, “Cheer up friend, it’s a long game.”

The game ended in a 2-2 draw, allowing Korea to advance to the final 16. Korean fans were overjoyed; I joined a zealous crowd of fanatics and screamed along with them as a ringleader yelled Korean gibberish through a megaphone. Even during this joyous celebration I noticed many Nigerians come over to take pictures and bask in the celebration. That’s the beauty of the World Cup. Whether your team suffers a first round exit, or is lucky enough to lift the golden trophy, the experience is once in a lifetime and truly shows the world's universal love for this beautiful game.

— Contact Wesley Leung.

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